From: G.T. on 7 Jan 2008 22:53
"Rod Smith" <rodsmith(a)nessus.rodsbooks.com> wrote in message
> In article <13o36j825t8r910(a)corp.supernews.com>,
> "G.T." <getnews1(a)dslextreme.com> writes:
>> Oh, and regarding grain, my instructor actually suggested that I use
>> Xtol for now. But during class he told us that we'll get larger, more
>> noticeable grain if we using something like Rodinal/HC-110. That's why
>> I'm currently playing with it.
> Experimenting with products is fine; however, since you're just starting
> out I'd like to caution you against going wild with all the films and
> developers that are out there. You'll learn most quickly if you stick to
> just one or two films and one developer while you learn. If you try a new
> film/developer combination with every roll or two, you won't learn how the
> two work together or be able to optimize your developing techniques. Learn
> your basic techniques first and THEN start playing with different
Basically, for good or bad, I'm using Tri-X 400 (I have also used some of
the current Arista 400 film but for film right now I'm sticking with the
Tri-X), and on just my 2nd developer, the Rodinal, the 4 oz bottle. I'll
finish this Rodinal up and try some Xtol. I won't be trying any other films
until I get a feel for the differences of the Tri-X in the Accufine, the
Rodinal, and then the Xtol.
Is that reasonable?
I'm fortunate to live a short subway ride away from Freestyle.
From: David Nebenzahl on 7 Jan 2008 22:58
On 1/7/2008 7:28 PM G.T. spake thus:
> I forgot to ask one question. What is the effect of fixing for too long?
Image degradation, and in extreme cases, silver reduction and image
"bleaching"--but you'd have to leave the film in for a very long time
for this to happen.
Don't sweat it.
From: G.T. on 8 Jan 2008 00:23
Richard Knoppow wrote:
> "G.T." <getnews1(a)dslextreme.com> wrote in message
>> From reading your post and Lawrence's I can test by
>> snipping off the leader of a 35mm roll? Just drop it in
>> some fixer and time how long it takes to clear?
>> I also have a roll of 120 Tri-X 400 that I opened just to
>> practice loading a reel with.
> Just take a small scrap of the film and soak it in
> water for perhaps 2 minutes. Then drop in some of the fixer
> and swirl it around. Measure the time it takes to be
> visually clear.
Thanks, I'll do that before my next round of developing.
>> I was thinking about calling up Translight Colors. Anyone
>> heard good or bad?
> What is the problem with setting up to print? There may
> be a way around this. It is much more satisfactory to do
> your own printing so its worth exploring ways to accomplish
They have a rental darkroom near downtown LA. $12 an hour or something
My bathroom is tiny, tiny. Not much room to stand while brushing my
teeth and the toilet is in a space that I'm not sure I can fit an
enlarger on the toilet seat. It would be very difficult to print in the
my bathroom. And there is just too much light outside at night to close
off my kitchen.
From: Ken Hart on 8 Jan 2008 01:21
"David Nebenzahl" <nobody(a)but.us.chickens> wrote in message
> On 1/7/2008 7:28 PM G.T. spake thus:
>> I forgot to ask one question. What is the effect of fixing for too long?
> Image degradation, and in extreme cases, silver reduction and image
> "bleaching"--but you'd have to leave the film in for a very long time for
> this to happen.
> Don't sweat it.
And that period of time would be measured with a calendar rather than
From: Ken Hart on 8 Jan 2008 01:22
"Andrew Price" <ajprice(a)free.fr> wrote in message
> On Mon, 7 Jan 2008 00:13:06 -0500, "Ken Hart" <kwhart(a)fullnet.com>
>>There is also a gentleman who espouses 'one-tray' processing.
>>I've never tried it myself, but perhaps for the temporary darkroom, it may
>>be the answer.
> That would be Lloyd Erlick:
> The rest of his site is also well worth a visit.
That would be the gentleman I was thinking of (Sorry, Mr Erlick!). His site
is very worthwhile, and the OP may find some tips to help his 'lack of