From: Ken Hart on

"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" <gsm(a)mendelson.com> wrote in message
news:slrnfo511a.l36.gsm(a)cable.mendelson.com...
> G.T. wrote:
>> Rob Morley wrote:
>> If I were to use a drum what would I need? Is it similar to processing
>> film?
>
> It depends. The simple ones are drums that are like daylight tanks
> for stainless steel reels, they have a light trap at the fill end
> that does not depend upon a reel.
>
> You stuff the print in it in the dark, close it up and and develop.
> Simple drums get rolled on the table, more complex systems have
> rolling machines.
>
> Normally they are used for color because consistent agitation and
> temperature control are necessary.
>
> There are all sorts of drums for the rolling machines including one
> that holds sheet film in an interrupted spiral. You would use it for
> small prints if you want to develop several at a time.
>
> Look up Jobo.
Also look up Unicolor.
>
>> Print, load in drum, fill with developer, agitate, empty developer, fill
>> with stop and agitate, empty, fill with fixer and agitate, empty. Then
>> hypo clear, wash, and dry?

I have a Unicolor 8x10 drum. It's about 4" in diameter and 8+" long. The
bottom is sealed and the top has light baffles thru which the chems are
poured. The Unicolor drum has "feet" so that it sits horizontally, the chems
are poured in and go into a 'trough'. When the drum is rolled off of it's
feet, the chems flow over the paper. According to the instructions, it
requires only 2 ounces of chems. I don't trust this figure and I use at
least 8 ounces, depending on the process. (I use mine for C-41 or RA-4) The
drum will hold 1-8x10 or 2-5x7 or 4-4x5.
If you go this route, find a roller base. Rolling this thing back and forth
across the table gets boring Very Quickly!
Check eBay; the drums and roller bases appear often. I bought my drum as
part of a Unicolor color print kit back in the 1970's, and the drum cost me
$15 a year or so ago on eBay. If you can, get more than one drum. They can
be difficult to reload when damp-- the paper can stick to the sides and get
hung up. If you have more than one, one can be draining while the other is
in use.


From: G.T. on
Ken Hart wrote:
> "Geoffrey S. Mendelson" <gsm(a)mendelson.com> wrote in message
> news:slrnfo511a.l36.gsm(a)cable.mendelson.com...
>> G.T. wrote:
>>> Rob Morley wrote:
>>> If I were to use a drum what would I need? Is it similar to processing
>>> film?
>> It depends. The simple ones are drums that are like daylight tanks
>> for stainless steel reels, they have a light trap at the fill end
>> that does not depend upon a reel.
>>
>> You stuff the print in it in the dark, close it up and and develop.
>> Simple drums get rolled on the table, more complex systems have
>> rolling machines.
>>
>> Normally they are used for color because consistent agitation and
>> temperature control are necessary.
>>
>> There are all sorts of drums for the rolling machines including one
>> that holds sheet film in an interrupted spiral. You would use it for
>> small prints if you want to develop several at a time.
>>
>> Look up Jobo.
> Also look up Unicolor.
>>> Print, load in drum, fill with developer, agitate, empty developer, fill
>>> with stop and agitate, empty, fill with fixer and agitate, empty. Then
>>> hypo clear, wash, and dry?
>
> I have a Unicolor 8x10 drum. It's about 4" in diameter and 8+" long. The
> bottom is sealed and the top has light baffles thru which the chems are
> poured. The Unicolor drum has "feet" so that it sits horizontally, the chems
> are poured in and go into a 'trough'. When the drum is rolled off of it's
> feet, the chems flow over the paper. According to the instructions, it
> requires only 2 ounces of chems. I don't trust this figure and I use at
> least 8 ounces, depending on the process. (I use mine for C-41 or RA-4) The
> drum will hold 1-8x10 or 2-5x7 or 4-4x5.
> If you go this route, find a roller base. Rolling this thing back and forth
> across the table gets boring Very Quickly!
> Check eBay; the drums and roller bases appear often. I bought my drum as
> part of a Unicolor color print kit back in the 1970's, and the drum cost me
> $15 a year or so ago on eBay. If you can, get more than one drum. They can
> be difficult to reload when damp-- the paper can stick to the sides and get
> hung up. If you have more than one, one can be draining while the other is
> in use.
>

Excellent advice. I assume the roller is just a base that makes it easy
to manually roll the drum in place? Or is it motorized?

I have my own easel, filters, grain checker, and a couple of trays so
let me get a list together here of the rest of the stuff I would need:

enlarger, lens, neg holder, timer
safelight
paper developer
2 drums
I can use my two trays for the initial wash and hypo clearing?
something to use for washing
print wiper
dryer?

What am I missing?

Greg


From: G.T. on
David Nebenzahl wrote:
> On 1/7/2008 7:46 PM G.T. spake thus:
>
>> With the drums can I agitate manually or is it too inconvenient to
>> agitate it myself? Do I need to get a roller, too?
>
> I'd spend the extra fifty cents and get the motor base.

I should have read this post before sending my last one. So these days
the used motor bases are quite cheap?

> I got my drum processor (Beseler Unicolor, made for color 8x10 prints,
> but I use it for 4x5 film processing) with the companion motor base for
> $cheap on eBay. Stuff like that comes up there all the time.
>
> And contrary to what I've heard here, I've never gotten any processing
> streaks on film from the machine agitation.
>
> It also uses a *lot* less chemistry, since you don't have to fill a
> whole tray.

Gotcha.

Greg
From: David Nebenzahl on
On 1/7/2008 11:02 PM G.T. spake thus:

> Ken Hart wrote:
>
>> If you go this route, find a roller base. Rolling this thing back and forth
>> across the table gets boring Very Quickly!
>
> Excellent advice. I assume the roller is just a base that makes it easy
> to manually roll the drum in place? Or is it motorized?

Motorized; rolls back and forth. And cheap (used, on eBay). I think I
paid less than $15 for mine.
From: Geoffrey S. Mendelson on
G.T. wrote:
> enlarger, lens, neg holder, timer

I started out without a timer, I used a watch.
Before that I used the the old "one-one thousand" method for
timing exposure and developed by inspection.

> safelight

That's a touchy subject here. Safelight type, color and position vary a
lot and as long as they don't fog your paper, it's a matter of money and
personal preference. If you can figure out the electrical wiring a
connection that turns off the safelight while the enlarger is on will
make setup and focusing easier.

> paper developer

Yes, though some people have said that rodinal works in a pinch.

> 2 drums

The more the merrier. You have to dry it completely between prints
and that may take more time than anything else. A hair dryer?

> I can use my two trays for the initial wash and hypo clearing?

Sure, if you have a sink, you can rinse the print off in it and
then soak it, which may use more water, or do the final wash in
a bucket or a vertical washer.

> something to use for washing

A while ago I mentioned converting an aquarium to a vertical
processor, a leaky one could be used for a washer.

> print wiper
> dryer?

I don't really think they are needed for RC paper, for fiber
paper you would. RC prints dry nicely on a clothes line
(indoors to prevent dust) or a dish rack.


> What am I missing?

Tongs, stop bath and fixer. Gloves if you have skin problems
with the chemicals.

As for timing the processing steps, there is a nice freeware
program for the Palm Pilot that does it and you could probably
pick up an old one for free. From what I can see, anything
without a color screen, MP3 playback, etc has long since
be stuck in a drawer as too good to throw away and not
good enough to use, but it would be perfect.

Geoff.
--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel gsm(a)mendelson.com N3OWJ/4X1GM
IL Voice: (07)-7424-1667 U.S. Voice: 1-215-821-1838
Visit my 'blog at http://geoffstechno.livejournal.com/
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