From: ____ on
In article <Keith.Tapscott..2ed4f88(a)photobanter.com>,
Keith Tapscott. <Keith.Tapscott..2ed4f88(a)photobanter.com> wrote:

> Does anyone know of any true `cold-tone` paper developer recipes, either
> MQ or PQ?

Although developer choice can affect the hue that a silver papers' base
can achieve, the experience I have is that cold or warmness is more
related to the native chemical composition of said paper.

Typically a paper with more Bromide than salt has a cooler tone and more
contrast. More salt as in the Chlorobromide emulsions produce a "warmer"
hue softer characteristic curve set in general terms.

The darkroom cook book by Stephen Anchell has a number of formula that
yield the cold image tones, Edwal Ultra black was a great cold tone
developer one could get almost blue images out of the stuff.

One formula in Steve's book (Steve's a friend BTW) is by Maxim Muir was
listed as formula #54.....Blue Black Developer. There is also the Burki
and Jenny C-tone developer. Muir's developer is said to work best with
C-tone papers, B&J with most papers. Interestingly The #54 has more
Benzotriazole * and is a MQ developer, whereas the B&J uses less * and
it is PQ developer.....B&J uses Potassium Bromide. Muir's does not.

I once ask Muir some questions but he seems to have disappeared. I am
not sure if Steve knows here he went...I guess I should ask.

The B&K+J formula says its similar to Kodak D-72.

--
Reality is a picture perfected and never looking back.
From: ____ on
In article <UaTpk.95$482.11(a)trnddc06>,
Jean-David Beyer <jeandavid8(a)verizon.net> wrote:

> The ethanol does not make much difference
> otherwise. If you are a chemist and have absolute alcohol on hand, you could
> use that, of course.

Or just live in sate like mine where you can buy "Everclear" :)

>
> If you selenium tone your prints afterwards, I doubt it matters if you use
> bzt instead of bromide to begin with.

Gold Tone!!! :)

--
Reality is a picture perfected and never looking back.
From: ____ on
Those are great formula!....I am glad we agree too and I didn't start
out reading your post :) Otherwise I be questioning whether I somewhere
lost my marbles.

> There really isn't such a thing. For the most part the
> image color is due to the nature of the emulsion.
> Kodak D-73 For Blue-Black Tones

> If you want good cold or blue black tones toning with a
> gold toner will give them to you and produce a very
> permanent image. The toner is somewhat expensive but the
> amount of gold chloride contained is quite small so its
> affordable. Here are a couple of gold toner formulas.
>
> Agfa 231 Gold Toner
>
What about Amidol, as in Ansco 113?

--
Reality is a picture perfected and never looking back.
From: Jean-David Beyer on
____ wrote:

> What about Amidol, as in Ansco 113?
>
I used to use Ansco 113 and it was about the same as Dektol at the time,
except it required about a minute longer development time or about a stop
more exposure. In enlarging, neither was a problem.

Here, too, I used benzotriazole instead of bromide, and I added a little
citric acid to make it last a little longer.

There is a romance to this developer, but it is another way of obtaining the
same results as far as I a m concerned.

--
.~. Jean-David Beyer Registered Linux User 85642.
/V\ PGP-Key: 9A2FC99A Registered Machine 241939.
/( )\ Shrewsbury, New Jersey http://counter.li.org
^^-^^ 20:45:01 up 11 days, 2:51, 4 users, load average: 4.48, 4.25, 4.19
From: Richard Knoppow on

"____" <internetphobic(a)deletedmail.com> wrote in message
news:internetphobic-56EE91.19462017082008(a)newsgroups.comcast.net...
> Those are great formula!....I am glad we agree too and I
> didn't start
> out reading your post :) Otherwise I be questioning
> whether I somewhere
> lost my marbles.
>
>> There really isn't such a thing. For the most part the
>> image color is due to the nature of the emulsion.
>> Kodak D-73 For Blue-Black Tones
>
>> If you want good cold or blue black tones toning with a
>> gold toner will give them to you and produce a very
>> permanent image. The toner is somewhat expensive but the
>> amount of gold chloride contained is quite small so its
>> affordable. Here are a couple of gold toner formulas.
>>
>> Agfa 231 Gold Toner
>>
> What about Amidol, as in Ansco 113?
>
Amidol has always been considered a cold or neutral
tone developer but, like other developers, the image color
depends on the activity of the developer and its other
contents. I am not sure Amidol has enough special virtues to
compensate for its high cost, short working life, and
tendency to produce black stains on anything it drys on
including your fingernails.
Ansco/Agfa 113 is a pretty typical Amidol formula.
There are a lot of them around. Many of the variations have
to do with trying to extend its tray life. Amidol developers
must be mixed just before use. One of the virtues, which is
also a problem, is that the solution does not discolor as it
becomes exhausted so you can't tell exhausted developer by
just looking at it.
For those interested here are a couple of Amidol
formulas.

Ansco/Agfa 113
Amidol 6.6 grams
Sodium sulfite, desiccated 44.0 grams
Potassium bromide 0.55 gram
Water to make 1.0 liter

Use full strength.
Note the small amount of bromide. Amidol produces very
little developer fog when accelerated with sulfite only. The
low bromide content also contributes to cold or neutral
tones but much more bromide can be used if necessary.

Dassonville D-2
Water, at 70F or 21C 500.0 ml
Amidol 5.5 grams
Sodium sulfite, desiccated 16.5 grams
Potassium bromide 0.6 grams
Water to make 1.0 liter

Use full strength. Dassonville recommended that exposure be
timed so that development was complete in 2 minutes at 65F
to 70F.

Kodak D-51
Stock Solution
Water, at 125F or 52C 750.0 ml
Sodium sulfite, desiccated 120.0 grams
Amidol 37.5 grams
Water to make 1.0 liter

For use take 180 ml of the stock solution, 3.0 ml of a 10%
potassium bromide solution, and 750 ml of water.
There is no information as to the shelf life of the
stock solution.

A common addition to Amidol formulas is citric acid
which is supposed to extend the working life of the
developer. I am not sure what chemical mechanism this would
employ. However, the acid would lower the pH a bit lowering
the activity. Typical tray life is a few hours.
I used Amidol many years ago and got some very good
prints with it. If it were not for the high cost of the
stuff I would recommend trying it. I am pretty sure places
like Photographer's Formulary carry it. The proper chemical
name is diaminophenol hydrochloride, it may be easier to
find that if you are searching chemical manufacturers.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk(a)ix.netcom.com


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk(a)ix.netcom.com


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