How would you repair this?
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From: Cheesehead on 9 Dec 2009 18:06 My old Kodak 2-D back has split, so there is a serious problem developing. See a pic of the issue at http://www.brendemuehl.net/images/k2d.jpg Would you a) wood putty the corner b) epoxy the corner c) cut out the corner and put in a piece or d) something else
From: David Nebenzahl on 9 Dec 2009 21:02 On 12/9/2009 3:06 PM Cheesehead spake thus: > My old Kodak 2-D back has split, so there is a serious problem > developing. > See a pic of the issue at > http://www.brendemuehl.net/images/k2d.jpg > > Would you > a) wood putty the corner > b) epoxy the corner > c) cut out the corner and put in a piece > or > d) something else Wow; that looks almost exactly like the back to my ROC Universal camera. Pretty much the same layout, with the brass pins and all. So evidently that pin has broken through the wood. This makes using any kind of filler kind of iffy. I was going to say that putty (even strong epoxy filler) just plain wouldn't work, but looking at the picture again, it seems to me that you might be able to get away with it. What I'd do is to try to lay a piece of metal hardware in the space left by the broken wood; say a small strip of steel, bent to go around the pin and embedded in the filler. I recently repaired a window frame (double-hung sash from a house) using wood filler. I used some stuff called PC-Woody which worked very well. Did basically the same thing there: the entire corner of the window was missing, so I embedded an angle bracket and some threaded rod into the remaining solid wood, and the repair was rock-solid. The trick is going to be to get just the right amount of goop into the damaged area. I'd probably make a little form to go on both sides, so at least the sides of the repair will be straight and level with the sides of the back. Just use two small pieces of wood and put waxed paper on the inside so the epoxy won't stick to them. Drill a hole the size of the pin in the longer piece and fit the pin into it. Fill it as level as you can (the stuff is the consistency of peanut butter). After it sets, you can chisel, file or sand it level with the wood. The other choice would be to fit in a piece of wood. This could result in a very strong and unobtrusive repair, but it would be a lot more work. Oh, and you ought to try to color the epoxy to match somewhat. You can either mix in some dark sawdust, or use some solid color pigment of some kind (probably oil-soluble rather than water-soluble). I'd experiment on a scrap piece of wood first to try to get a good match. If you match it carefully enough, the repair should be difficult to detect. Good luck. -- I am a Canadian who was born and raised in The Netherlands. I live on Planet Earth on a spot of land called Canada. We have noisy neighbours. - harvested from Usenet
From: Richard Knoppow on 11 Dec 2009 06:18 "David Nebenzahl" <nobody(a)but.us.chickens> wrote in message news:4b205669$0$26993$822641b3(a)news.adtechcomputers.com... > On 12/9/2009 3:06 PM Cheesehead spake thus: > >> My old Kodak 2-D back has split, so there is a serious >> problem >> developing. >> See a pic of the issue at >> http://www.brendemuehl.net/images/k2d.jpg >> >> Would you >> a) wood putty the corner >> b) epoxy the corner >> c) cut out the corner and put in a piece >> or >> d) something else > > Wow; that looks almost exactly like the back to my ROC > Universal camera. Pretty much the same layout, with the > brass pins and all. > > So evidently that pin has broken through the wood. This > makes using any kind of filler kind of iffy. I was going > to say that putty (even strong epoxy filler) just plain > wouldn't work, but looking at the picture again, it seems > to me that you might be able to get away with it. > > What I'd do is to try to lay a piece of metal hardware in > the space left by the broken wood; say a small strip of > steel, bent to go around the pin and embedded in the > filler. > > I recently repaired a window frame (double-hung sash from > a house) using wood filler. I used some stuff called > PC-Woody which worked very well. Did basically the same > thing there: the entire corner of the window was missing, > so I embedded an angle bracket and some threaded rod into > the remaining solid wood, and the repair was rock-solid. > > The trick is going to be to get just the right amount of > goop into the damaged area. I'd probably make a little > form to go on both sides, so at least the sides of the > repair will be straight and level with the sides of the > back. Just use two small pieces of wood and put waxed > paper on the inside so the epoxy won't stick to them. > Drill a hole the size of the pin in the longer piece and > fit the pin into it. Fill it as level as you can (the > stuff is the consistency of peanut butter). After it sets, > you can chisel, file or sand it level with the wood. > > The other choice would be to fit in a piece of wood. This > could result in a very strong and unobtrusive repair, but > it would be a lot more work. > > Oh, and you ought to try to color the epoxy to match > somewhat. You can either mix in some dark sawdust, or use > some solid color pigment of some kind (probably > oil-soluble rather than water-soluble). I'd experiment on > a scrap piece of wood first to try to get a good match. If > you match it carefully enough, the repair should be > difficult to detect. > > Good luck. I would second the use of a wood inlay. Use hardwood. cut out the splintered part and any rotting wood around it and fill the area in with a bit of hardwood cut approximately to shape. I am not an expert on glue but would use the strongest possible. When the patch is in place you can sand it to be an exact fit and drill a pilot hole for the pin so its a fairly tight fit. Then, before putting the pin in permanently refinish the area to the best match you can get. Then install the pin with some glue. That should work and won't split again. This is about the same technique that works on rotted screw holes. You drill out the hole and fill it with a hardwood peg. The 2D is a strongly made camera and worth some effort to fix. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA dickburk(a)ix.netcom.com
From: David Nebenzahl on 19 Dec 2009 14:00 On 12/9/2009 3:06 PM Cheesehead spake thus: > My old Kodak 2-D back has split, so there is a serious problem > developing. > See a pic of the issue at > http://www.brendemuehl.net/images/k2d.jpg So, progress report? Have you decided to try to tackle this yourself? -- I am a Canadian who was born and raised in The Netherlands. I live on Planet Earth on a spot of land called Canada. We have noisy neighbours. - harvested from Usenet
From: Cheesehead on 1 Jan 2010 22:16
On Dec 19 2009, 2:00 pm, David Nebenzahl <nob...(a)but.us.chickens> wrote: > On 12/9/2009 3:06 PM Cheesehead spake thus: > > > My old Kodak 2-D back has split, so there is a serious problem > > developing. > > See a pic of the issue at > >http://www.brendemuehl.net/images/k2d.jpg > > So, progress report? Have you decided to try to tackle this yourself? > > -- > I am a Canadian who was born and raised in The Netherlands. I live on > Planet Earth on a spot of land called Canada. We have noisy neighbours. > > - harvested from Usenet I set it aside during the holidays. I'm going to do the job in a couple of weeks. I think the approach will be to take the corner down to a fitting shape and then glue on a piece of hardwood, perhaps with a screw or small dowel for added support. |