From: Richard Knoppow on

"piterengel" <pslaviero(a)interfree.it> wrote in message
news:1193310410.543853.306920(a)o80g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
> On 25 Ott, 01:50, dan.c.qu...(a)att.net wrote:
>> > "Richard Knoppow" wrote:
>>
>> > ... but lith film remains because it is used
>> > in a number of alternative photographic processes
>> > and for special effects such as masking.
>> > Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA
>>
>> Check your local printing supply outlets or visit via
>> the WWW
>> Valley Litho, a Mid West mail order supplier of a vast
>> selection
>> of press room supplies including a large selection of
>> lith - half
>> tone process films and developers.
>> Should add, also a somewhat unique assortment of film,
>> paper, and darkroom supplies. Dan
>
> Well, after all these answers I want to try to use ID-13
> and Kodak
> D-85, for 2-3 mins with fils.
> I have a matter with sodium bisulphite, ttah appears in
> D-85 formula.
> I've not this substance available, can I replace it with
> somenthing
> else? Is it really necessary?
> Thanks, I'll let you know the results of my tests.
> P.
>
Photographic sodium bisulfite is actually mostly sodium
metabisulfite and metabisulfite can be substituted.
Sodium sulfite is not the same as the bisulfite. Sulfite
is slightly alkaline, bisulfite is slightly acid. The two
make a buffer and are used together, for instance, in Kodak
fine grain developer D-25 and in Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent
to get a neutral pH. Kodak has two versions of D-85, a
single solution developer, D-85 and a two solution version
called D-85b. The two solution version has better keeping
properties. Both formulas specify potassium metabisulfite. I
think the sodium form will work as well. Use whatever you
can obtain most easily. Agfa/Ansco had similar formulas
which call for sodium bisulfite so evidently the cation does
not matter. The bisulfite of the Ansco formulas is, like
Kodak, actually metabisulfite.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk(a)ix.netcom.com


From: piterengel on
On Oct 25, 6:36 pm, "Richard Knoppow" <dickb...(a)ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> "piterengel" <pslavi...(a)interfree.it> wrote in message
>
> news:1193310410.543853.306920(a)o80g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
>
> > On 25 Ott, 01:50, dan.c.qu...(a)att.net wrote:
> >> > "Richard Knoppow" wrote:
>
> >> > ... but lith film remains because it is used
> >> > in a number of alternative photographic processes
> >> > and for special effects such as masking.
> >> > Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA
>
> >> Check your local printing supply outlets or visit via
> >> the WWW
> >> Valley Litho, a Mid West mail order supplier of a vast
> >> selection
> >> of press room supplies including a large selection of
> >> lith - half
> >> tone process films and developers.
> >> Should add, also a somewhat unique assortment of film,
> >> paper, and darkroom supplies. Dan
>
> > Well, after all these answers I want to try to use ID-13
> > and Kodak
> > D-85, for 2-3 mins with fils.
> > I have a matter with sodium bisulphite, ttah appears in
> > D-85 formula.
> > I've not this substance available, can I replace it with
> > somenthing
> > else? Is it really necessary?
> > Thanks, I'll let you know the results of my tests.
> > P.
>
> Photographic sodium bisulfite is actually mostly sodium
> metabisulfite and metabisulfite can be substituted.
> Sodium sulfite is not the same as the bisulfite. Sulfite
> is slightly alkaline, bisulfite is slightly acid. The two
> make a buffer and are used together, for instance, in Kodak
> fine grain developer D-25 and in Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent
> to get a neutral pH. Kodak has two versions of D-85, a
> single solution developer, D-85 and a two solution version
> called D-85b. The two solution version has better keeping
> properties. Both formulas specify potassium metabisulfite. I
> think the sodium form will work as well. Use whatever you
> can obtain most easily. Agfa/Ansco had similar formulas
> which call for sodium bisulfite so evidently the cation does
> not matter. The bisulfite of the Ansco formulas is, like
> Kodak, actually metabisulfite.
>
> --
> ---
> Richard Knoppow
> Los Angeles, CA, USA
> dickb...(a)ix.netcom.com

These are my first two results. I've mounted on camera an EFKE 25
film, I've taken 8 pictures, cut this first part adn put into a tank.
Than I've taken again 8 pictures, the same of first time, cut film and
put un another tank. I've dobe this three times.
Than I've developed first part with ID-13 for 3 mins. Images are well
contrasted BUT NOT enough. I remember I'm trying to obtain LINE works.
With the second part I've used Kodak D-85 for 2.5 mins. SURPRISE!
Everything is disappeared!!! I've a totally empty film, without any
shadow or kind of figure! What's happen?
The third part is still into the tank waiting for tips.
Bye and thanks
P.

From: piterengel on
On Oct 27, 10:05 am, piterengel <pslavi...(a)interfree.it> wrote:
> On Oct 25, 6:36 pm, "Richard Knoppow" <dickb...(a)ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > "piterengel" <pslavi...(a)interfree.it> wrote in message
>
> >news:1193310410.543853.306920(a)o80g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
>
> > > On 25 Ott, 01:50, dan.c.qu...(a)att.net wrote:
> > >> > "Richard Knoppow" wrote:
>
> > >> > ... but lith film remains because it is used
> > >> > in a number of alternative photographic processes
> > >> > and for special effects such as masking.
> > >> > Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA
>
> > >> Check your local printing supply outlets or visit via
> > >> the WWW
> > >> Valley Litho, a Mid West mail order supplier of a vast
> > >> selection
> > >> of press room supplies including a large selection of
> > >> lith - half
> > >> tone process films and developers.
> > >> Should add, also a somewhat unique assortment of film,
> > >> paper, and darkroom supplies. Dan
>
> > > Well, after all these answers I want to try to use ID-13
> > > and Kodak
> > > D-85, for 2-3 mins with fils.
> > > I have a matter with sodium bisulphite, ttah appears in
> > > D-85 formula.
> > > I've not this substance available, can I replace it with
> > > somenthing
> > > else? Is it really necessary?
> > > Thanks, I'll let you know the results of my tests.
> > > P.
>
> > Photographic sodium bisulfite is actually mostly sodium
> > metabisulfite and metabisulfite can be substituted.
> > Sodium sulfite is not the same as the bisulfite. Sulfite
> > is slightly alkaline, bisulfite is slightly acid. The two
> > make a buffer and are used together, for instance, in Kodak
> > fine grain developer D-25 and in Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent
> > to get a neutral pH. Kodak has two versions of D-85, a
> > single solution developer, D-85 and a two solution version
> > called D-85b. The two solution version has better keeping
> > properties. Both formulas specify potassium metabisulfite. I
> > think the sodium form will work as well. Use whatever you
> > can obtain most easily. Agfa/Ansco had similar formulas
> > which call for sodium bisulfite so evidently the cation does
> > not matter. The bisulfite of the Ansco formulas is, like
> > Kodak, actually metabisulfite.
>
> > --
> > ---
> > Richard Knoppow
> > Los Angeles, CA, USA
> > dickb...(a)ix.netcom.com
>
> These are my first two results. I've mounted on camera an EFKE 25
> film, I've taken 8 pictures, cut this first part adn put into a tank.
> Than I've taken again 8 pictures, the same of first time, cut film and
> put un another tank. I've dobe this three times.
> Than I've developed first part with ID-13 for 3 mins. Images are well
> contrasted BUT NOT enough. I remember I'm trying to obtain LINE works.
> With the second part I've used Kodak D-85 for 2.5 mins. SURPRISE!
> Everything is disappeared!!! I've a totally empty film, without any
> shadow or kind of figure! What's happen?
> The third part is still into the tank waiting for tips.
> Bye and thanks
> P.

A precisation on D-85. I've used acetone instead of paraformaldehyde,
as found elsewhere in internet.
P.

From: Ken Hart on

"piterengel" <pslaviero(a)interfree.it> wrote in message
news:1193472333.598880.285210(a)k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
snip
> These are my first two results. I've mounted on camera an EFKE 25
> film, I've taken 8 pictures, cut this first part adn put into a tank.
> Than I've taken again 8 pictures, the same of first time, cut film and
> put un another tank. I've dobe this three times.
> Than I've developed first part with ID-13 for 3 mins. Images are well
> contrasted BUT NOT enough. I remember I'm trying to obtain LINE works.
> With the second part I've used Kodak D-85 for 2.5 mins. SURPRISE!
> Everything is disappeared!!! I've a totally empty film, without any
> shadow or kind of figure! What's happen?
>
Re: the D-85: Completely clear, including no edge printing? That's a
processing problem. Either the developer had no activity at all, or you
confused the developer and the fixer, and fixed the film first, completely
clearing it. (Everyone has to make that mistake at least once...I'm waiting
for it to happen to me!)

You might want to take a chunk of film and just put it in the developer to
see if it turns black, and how long it takes.


From: piterengel on
On Oct 28, 3:48 am, "Ken Hart" <kwh...(a)aec.nu> wrote:
> "piterengel" <pslavi...(a)interfree.it> wrote in message
>
> news:1193472333.598880.285210(a)k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
> snip> These are my first two results. I've mounted on camera an EFKE 25
> > film, I've taken 8 pictures, cut this first part adn put into a tank.
> > Than I've taken again 8 pictures, the same of first time, cut film and
> > put un another tank. I've dobe this three times.
> > Than I've developed first part with ID-13 for 3 mins. Images are well
> > contrasted BUT NOT enough. I remember I'm trying to obtain LINE works.
> > With the second part I've used Kodak D-85 for 2.5 mins. SURPRISE!
> > Everything is disappeared!!! I've a totally empty film, without any
> > shadow or kind of figure! What's happen?
>
> Re: the D-85: Completely clear, including no edge printing? That's a
> processing problem. Either the developer had no activity at all, or you
> confused the developer and the fixer, and fixed the film first, completely
> clearing it. (Everyone has to make that mistake at least once...I'm waiting
> for it to happen to me!)
>
> You might want to take a chunk of film and just put it in the developer to
> see if it turns black, and how long it takes.

Assuming that errors can occour, this is not the case. I've prepared
D-85 and immediately put into the tank, so I've developed film, not
fixed. The fact is that everything is disappeared form film, numbers
of pictures and trade mark too. Surely this is an extremely strong
developer, I'm thinking to try again it but diluited ten times.
Bye.
P.

First  |  Prev  |  Next  |  Last
Pages: 1 2 3 4 5 6
Prev: sharpness & grain
Next: eBay: Jobo CPP-2 darkroom processor